On the 10th November 2022, after a passage of 5 days, 6 hours we approached the island of Sal in the Cape Verdes.
The Cape Verdes are a group of ten islands. They have a rich and diverse history that spans centuries, encompassing a blend of cultures, influences, and struggles. From their volcanic origins to their pivotal role in transatlantic trade, the Cape Verde Islands have a captivating history that has shaped their identity and cultural heritage.
Formed through intense geological volcanic activity, the islands emerged from the depths of the ocean, creating a rugged landscape. The earliest settlers of the islands were seafaring peoples who navigated the challenging waters to establish communities.
In the 15th century marked Portuguese explorers established a strategic presence on the islands, using them as a crucial stopping point for transatlantic voyages. Unfortunately, Cape Verde became a hub for the slave trade, serving as a transit point for enslaved Africans en route to the Americas. The islands’ strategic location also made them a vital refueling station for ships traveling between Europe, Africa, and the Americas.
As the islands played a central role in the transatlantic slave trade, they became a melting pot of cultures. European, African, and indigenous influences converged, giving rise to a unique Creole identity. This cultural fusion is evident in the islands’ music, language, cuisine, and architecture. The Cape Verdean Creole language, Kriolu, evolved as a means of communication among the diverse population and is still spoken today.
The 20th century brought about significant political and social changes to Cape Verde. The islands were considered an overseas province of Portugal until 1951, when they were granted the status of an autonomous region. The quest for independence gained momentum, leading to a protracted struggle against Portuguese colonial rule. In 1975, Cape Verde finally achieved independence, with the islands’ first president, Aristides Pereira, leading the way.
Following independence, Cape Verde embarked on a journey of nation-building and development. The islands faced various challenges, including economic hardships, limited natural resources, and a reliance on foreign aid. Despite these obstacles, Cape Verde managed to achieve remarkable progress in areas such as education, healthcare, and gender equality. The tourism sector has became one of the most significant contributors to the islands’ economy.
The islands motto is ‘No Stress’, you’ll see and hear it all of the time.
Anyway, back to our voyage. It had been a great downwind sail under poled out genoa.
The swell as we sailed towards the anchorage at the port of Palmeira was quite large and slightly towards the anchorage which led us to wonder how sheltered it would be.
As we approached the harbour we could see lots of yachts anchored, with the outer yachts rolling quite alarmingly. We resigned ourselves to having to join them as the anchorage sheltered by the breakwater looked rammed.
We heard a call of ‘English boat, English boat’ over the VHF and, being the only ‘English boat’ that we could see moving, answered. It was Jai, the local, go to, boat boy and having answered him he led us to a great anchoring spot in 3m right at the front of the anchorage and completely sheltered, for the princely sum of €10. A bargain in my opinion.
Jai was able to supply water and diesel, take your garbage and arrange pretty much anything you might need. He patrolled the boats, looking after the ones who’d paid for his services. He is honest and hard working.
The origins of Sal’s history stretch back to ancient times when North African and West African settlers first inhabited the island. Evidences of their presence, including artifacts and remains, tell stories of their simple yet enduring way of life. The island’s renowned salt pans became a defining feature, leading to its name “Sal,” derived from the Portuguese word for salt. In the mid-15th century, Portuguese explorers such as Diogo Gomes discovered Sal during their voyages.
Gill and I went ashore to check in with customs and immigration. As we approached the steps at the end of the fish dock where all of the other dinghies were, young lads came forward to help us out and offer to watch our dinghy for €1. This turns out to be a great service as the room by the steps is very restricted and really only 2 dinghies could tie up there. The young lads help you out of the dinghy and the move it along the dock where it is too high for us to get out. They watch out for you returning and have your dinghy back to the steps ready for you. I don’t know how they remember which dinghy belongs to which sailors but they never got it wrong. We were happy to leave the dinghy ashore with them for full days and evenings ashore without having to worry about thefts.
The immigration officer wasn’t there when we first went to the office but the policeman we asked phoned him and we were asked to come back in an hour. Gill and I went for a wander around Palmeira. We’d holidayed on Sal in November 2008 and visited Palmeira on a tour of the island and it hadn’t changed much.
The shack on the fish dock was new but the ‘no stress’ donkey was still there.
We returned to the port office and the both the customs and immigration officers were there and we checked in without any problems in about 10 minutes. The policeman remembered us and he made a point of greeting us with fist bumps any time he saw us in the 12 days we were there.
Along with Mike and Claire from Owl and Pussycat, we decided to see a little more of the island, travelling on the frequent and very cheap mini buses. The drivers tour the town looking for custom until the bus is full and he’ll then set off to the destination at breakneck speeds as he is also in competition with the other bus drivers. We never had to wait more than a few minutes and found it very entertaining.
Our first outing was to the capital of Sal, Espargos. We wandered around the small town, had drinks in the town square and then decided to have lunch in a restaurant called Esplanada Bom Día. Gill and I couldn’t believe it was the same restaurant that we’d stopped at on our tour of the island years ago and it hadn’t changed at all.
We’d come to sample the capucha, a stew with potato, beans and a protein, usually chicken, pork or fish. I’m not particularly fond of fish stew and was relieved to hear that today’s stew was meat. It looked delicious on arrival but it wasn’t for me. Although it was a meat dish, it had been cooked in a fish stock. Still, I’d tried it.
The afternoon got better when a band set up and we spent a very enjoyable couple of hours listening to the music and dancing along with the locals.
Our next bus trip was to Santa Maria, the resort Gill and I had stayed at in 2008. A lot of it looked familiar but it had been built up and modernised. What was once a small fishing village is now a tourist town complete with a promenade and restaurants that were out of character with the original town
There is still a small fishing industry and it was interesting to go to the pier and see the locals landing their catch with sun bathing tourists on the beach to either side.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Palmiera but it was time to move on. We checked out of Sal with the intention of spending a night anchored off Santa Maria and then proceeding to Boa Vista.
Unfortunately the weather gods didn’t play ball with the wind and swell making the anchorage untenable. We had a fast sail to the Boa Vista anchorage instead along with Owl and Pussycat
We dropped anchor at Sal Rei on Boa Vista on the 7th of November. The anchorage behind Ilheu de Sal Rei was sheltered from the swell with lots of room. We anchored pretty much where the anchor symbol is in 3.5m. We then had to dinghy ashore to check in.
The town of Sal Rei had a lot of money spent on it in the early 2000s in order to attract holiday makers. The roads were all cobbled and fountains were erected on pretty much every corner. Unfortunately the tourists went to the all inclusive resorts built to the south of the huge bay and now the roads are falling into disrepair and the fountains are clogged with blown sand.
That isn’t to say the town isn’t pleasant, it’s just a bit run down. There was building work going on so perhaps they’re trying to repair things.
Boa Vista became a hub for the transatlantic slave trade. The island’s natural harbor and convenient location made it a center for slave auctions and the shipment of enslaved Africans to the Americas. Traces of this dark period can still be seen in the historical sites and structures that dot the island’s landscape.
The four of us headed to the police and customs building to be told none of them were present, you had to make an appointment. The police on the desk offered to call them and we were told to take a seat and they’d be there in 20 mins. 20 mins later they appeared and we checked in very quickly. We were given their personal phone numbers to call them when we wanted to check out.
Boa Vista is a fabulous spot for all wind sports and there are kitesurfing, foiling and wing foil centres all along the beach. 20 years ago I’d done a lot of kitesurfing so I signed up for a 2 hour session. In my day I’d kite surf all day and think nothing of it.
The wind was blowing in excess of 20kts and I was a little surprised when the instructor started inflating a 14 sq m kite. For reference, back in the UK I’d probably have chosen an 8 or 10m kite for those winds. He said not to worry as modern kites de-power very well.
Suitably kitted up we got into the rib and headed to the next bay where the wind comes over the low lying land and over the flat sea. I clipped the kite to my harness and did a bit of body dragging and kite control at the instructors request to show I’d done it before and he passed over the board.
I was up straight away, pleased that I’d remembered how to do it. I like quite a lot of pressure on my kite bar and pulled it towards me as I hit a wave and was immediately launched, followed by a crash.
There are 4 lines to the kite, the 2 attached to the front of the kite go through the control bar and to the harness, providing the pull, the 2 lines to the rear are attached to the ends of the control bar for steering.
Modern kites have no bar pressure at all, instead powering up when you pull the bar towards you and de-powering when you push it towards the kite. This went completely against my instincts from years of kiting. I’m used to pulling the bar for more control and whenever I did this I ended up crashing.
After an hour I was wiped out. I made my way back to shore to where Gill was waiting, so much out if breath I couldn’t speak. I’d really enjoyed myself and I’m going to practice while in the Caribbean.
There is a fort on Ilheu de Sal Rei which we decided to visit, along with Mike and Claire, followed by sundowners on the beach. The fort was complete with canons and great views over the anchorage. It was pretty obvious why it was there.
On the 26th of November we decided we’d leave Boa Vista and head for Mindelo on Sao Vincente. The port we’d leave from for our crossing to Barbados. I called the port police to arrange for Mike and I to meet them to check out, with the intention of heading off the next morning and sailing overnight.
Mike picked me up in his dinghy as our outboard was playing up and we landed on the beach next to a beach bar. The police were at their office and checking out went smoothly. ‘Unfortunately’ the tide had gone out on our return to the dinghy and the way to the water was over some pretty rough rocks. Hoping that it would start coming in again we decided to make use of the beach bar. A few beers later, the tide had come in sufficiently to head back to the boats. I’d been able to message Gill and Claire to appraise them of the situation but I’m not sure we weren’t suspected of planning it all along.
We left the anchorage at 11:00 for the overnight 140nm sail to Mindelo on Sao Vincente. It was a faster sail than we’d anticipated and we put 2 reefs in the main and 3 in the genoa to reduce speed so we didn’t arrive in the dark. We turned into the anchorage and dropped the main at 8:00 on the 28th.
The anchorage was pretty busy and we ended up anchoring at the back of the pack. Mindelo is a very sheltered anchorage so it wasn’t a problem, just a long dinghy ride into town.
The small marina has a floating bar with a dinghy dock. After Owl and Pussycat had arrived and anchored the 4 of us went ashore to check in and enjoy a well earned drink. The customs officers were very friendly and helpful but the immigration police must have had a bad day and were very officious and offhand. All of our papers etc were in order, I’d hate to have to confront them if anything was out of order.
The marina is at the end of a pier where the local version of boat boys hang out offering their services for everything from taxi rides, tours of the island or promises to procure pretty much anything you may want. We’d learned by now that it was best to choose one, agree a small service and promise to go back to him if anything else is needed. The other boat boys then leave you alone when you mention the name of the guy helping you.
Mindelo has a number of supermarkets stocking most of the things you may need to top up provisions prior to the Atlantic crossing. It also has an indoor and outdoor fish, fruit and veg markets which are open every day except Sunday. We found the markets to be very expensive compared with the supermarkets. I suspect there is a tourist price and a locals price.
The indoor market has a very good butcher and it’s better to get there early because he has a tendency to sell out of the best meat quite quickly. You also can’t be sure what meat he will have on any given day.
The town is a mix of grand mansions from the Portuguese colonial times and rougher shacks and run down buildings.
We arranged a tour of the island with the boat boy we’d seen. It started with a trip to the highest point on the island, Monte Verde at a height of 750m, where we were treated to some stunning views.
The plants are kept watered through a water catching mesh. There are often clouds capping the hill and a network of mesh causes dew to form and run down the mesh to be captured and used for irrigation.
An enterprising chap has created the Cabana de Cha at the top where he sells a number of drinks including grog that he’s distilled himself.
From Monte Verde we descended to sea level at the beach at Salamansa. It was pretty quiet apart from a few children selling shells and one person kite foiling. The children go to school for half a day each weekday with half attending in the morning and the rest in the afternoon.
Our next stop was Baia das Gatas. There is a huge music festival held over several days here but obviously not while we were there.
There is a swim platform at the end of the pier so naturally Claire and I took the opportunity to cool down while Gill and Mike took photographs.
Our next stop was Pria Grande where sand blown from the Sahara is forming sand dunes. The road has to be cleared on a regular basis and the dunes are gradually covering more of the rock.
Our next stop was for a late lunch followed by a visit to a turtle rescue facility. The tank was being cleaned and the turtles looked pretty distraught.
We made our way back to Mindelo through the central valley where most of the islands fruit and vegetables are grown.
We’d been waiting for a weather window to cross the Atlantic for a couple of weeks and the time was fast approaching when we’d have to renew our visa having been in the Cape Verdes for almost 30 days. It was also into December and if we didn’t leave soon we wouldn’t be across the Atlantic before Christmas. The weather a couple of weeks earlier had been perfect but a serious of storms in the North Atlantic had stalled the trade winds.
On around the 6th of December the weather routing software we use suggested that we could leave and head 250nm south and be in decent trade winds to take us over if we left on the 8th December.
With a target date set, we topped up with fuel and fresh produce and set off on the biggest adventure so far.
While in the Canaries there had been a lot of negative chat about how safe the Cape Verde’s are, how welcoming or friendly the locals are and how pushy the boat boys are. All I can say is the we never felt threatened in any way, even out at night. The locals are very friendly and helpful. There are plenty of secure anchorages. There are plenty of options to provision.
You have to remember that most folk here are pretty poor but they are hard working and want to earn a living. I’m pleased we visited and maybe helped in a limited way.
NO STRESS!
Sailing Yacht Coriander 